All of my pups come with a two year health guarantee that can be extended to three years if they stay on the food that I provide for them when they go home. They will have received their first shots and been dewormed at least 3 times.
By the time they are ready to leave for their forever homes they will have been well socialized.
I provide for my families a toy, leash and collar, brush, some information sheets and a blanket that has been with the litter. The blanket provides a comfort factor for my little ones during those first few nights away from their siblings.
My puppies and their new families are important to me, so I offer life time support and love to stay in touch and receive updates. I look forward to seeing pictures of my puppies, and their families, as they grow and encourage them to drop in whenever in the area.
My larger breed puppies are on an adult food by the time they are 7 weeks old which is moistened and soaked in the beginning and then, once their teeth are in, given dry with a bit of added cold water for the larger breeds. It is not necessary to add water for the Havanese. The all transitional formula that I use, called TLC, allows puppies to grow at their normal rate, which is essential to form sound hips and joints rather than high calorie puppy foods which have been proven to be one of the causes of hip dysplasia or make an existing problem worse. This formula is 26% protein and 16% fat which is more than adequate for puppy growth and also for maintenance of adult dogs. Also, this is a Canadian product produced in Elmira and distributed from their warehouse in New Hamburg, ON. They have been producing pet foods for the past 21 years and have NEVER had a recall. This is a high quality product that I endorse 100% and all of my dogs, adults and puppy alike, are on it.
I also recommend putting your puppy on a good probiotic that can be obtained, at a better price, from most pet stores rather than from the vets.
For more information you can go to:
Parasite elimination and control is and will always be a big problem in kennels such as mine and I endeavor to have all parasites removed in my puppies before they go to their new homes. However, occasionally a puppy will go home with a parasite. I have many visitors that come into my establishment, mostly children, and that may be the main reason for this to occur. I adhere to strict hand washing before and after handling puppies but sometimes these practices are not followed as well as they should be. Even though there is a greater risk of passing parasites to my puppies I still believe in letting folks come in to visit so that they will see and know that my facility is legitimate and that I am a person of integrity. What you see is what you get. Visiting also helps to socialize my puppies which is one of the most important factors in raising sound pups.
I HAVE STARTED MY DOGS AND PUPPIES ON A PRODUCT CALLED
DIATOMACEOUS EARTH (DE)
It is amorphous silica and has a multitude of benefits for both animals and humans
including elimination of parasites from the digestive tract
Also, it is very cost effective
I order it online from:
7-142 Waterloo Street
More information on DE at:
TIPS ON TRANSITIONING YOUR PET TO NEW FORMULA
You will need to gradually transition your pet to the new formula:
Days 1 and 2
75% current diet + 25% new diet
Days 3 and 4
50% current diet + 50% new diet
Days 5 and 6
25% current diet + 75% new diet
Day 7 and beyond
100% new diet
The day intervals can certainly be longer but this gives you the basic method of transitioning to a new food
It's good to do compare shopping but if you are visiting multiple kennels please be respectful to myself and other breeders and take some simple precautions to avoid possible transference of diseases.
It is best to plan only one visit per day and avoid going to multiple kennels within a 24 hour period. Practice stringent hand washing upon arrival and when leaving kennels and bring different foot wear if you have visited a different kennel
within a week or longer.
CAT MEETS PUPPY
Many folks have inquired about the introduction of a new puppy to their cat. I use to raise Siamese kittens and have a fair amount of experience in this area so I thought I would just add a few "pearls of wisdom" on the matter.
In most instances, cats and dogs learn to live happily with one another in a short time but please be aware that the cat usually has been there first so he/she is the boss. But, when the relationship is new, these suggestions will hopefully help insure that it develops peaceably.
Get them use to each other's scent gradually by keeping them separated for a day or two.
If possible, let the first sight of each other be through a baby gate.
When they finally meet in the same space, keep the puppy on a leash and make sure the cat has an escape route if needed. Don't push them together but rather let the introductions be made slowly and in a calm atmosphere. The cat should not be scolded or punished if it decides to swat the puppy. The puppy will learn to respect the feline. However, do take steps to protect the puppy from injury especially to the eyes.
One thing you will have to insure is that the cat's food and kitty litter be in an area where Fido cannot get at it. The high protein in cat food can cause kidney damage in your pooch over time and I don't think I need to elaborate on the hazards of your puppy's eating of "used" kitty litter.
I hope these few suggestions will be helpful to ensure a peaceful introduction of your puppy to the cat of the house.
I do not recommend putting your dog on a heartworm or flea prevention program. I strongly feel that this is detrimental to the animal's health. You are feeding your puppy insecticides which is a poison!!
Here are some interesting and informative articles on this subject that I think every pet owner should read:
"Bonnieview Kennels will replace a puppy for any congenital defect, that causes the puppy to undergo euthanasia, up to two years of age".
I strongly believe that a puppy should not be spayed or neutered before one year of age. Reason being...the hormones that are present, before a spay or neuter, are responsible, not just for sexual maturity, but also for growth and development of muscles and ligaments. Spaying or neutering an animal removes these hormones. This results in ligaments and muscles that are not fully developed, but rather, weakened. Definitely this compromises joint health. As well if there is any underlying joint problem it will become much worse if there is no structure that is
!00% sound to hold the joints in place. Spaying or neutering, as such, will not cause hip dysplasia, but again, will make an existing problem worse or predispose the animal to injury when working or playing hard,
thus putting sound joints at risk.
Most canines require a full year to mature properly. However, in the case of a Golden Retriever, they should not be altered until 18 months as their growth plates do not close till then.
Here is an article on the subject of spaying and neutering:
For this reason my guarantee will not be honored if a puppy from Bonnieview Kennels is spayed or neutered prior to one year of age.
Bonnieview Kennels will not be held responsible for any medical expense after the purchase of any pet from my facility. I reserve the right to have my vet evaluate any medical problem that occurs during the guarantee period.